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Sunday 22 May 2022

Mainland Madness

With the coming of spring, which typically arrives during the second or third week of June up here, I decided to make a start on my jaunts onto the mainland in search of various delectable plant species which simply don't occur on Skye. Ordinarily this would see me undertake a quick dash across the bridge, kip in the car for a night, then head back late the following day. A bit restrictive, but the best I can manage on my work rota. That's how it would ordinarily work. This May has not been very ordinary though...

After a particularly shite day at work, I needed to head off. I jumped straight into The Gibstermobile and hit the road. I kipped that night in the Sugar Bowl car park just downslope of the main Cairngorm car park in Speyside. A Pine Marten crossing the road in my headlamps and several Mountain Hares bounding through the heather were stand out highlights, along with a fish-carrying Osprey alongside Loch Ness. The following morning saw me check in on various plants including Dwarf Birch, Large-flowered Selfheal and Drumstick Primrose. Sadly, I'd neglected to grab my camera (or a coat...) before hitting the road, so there's not much more to say about that trip, doubly frustrating seeing as I checked a roadside larch plantation and discovered it was all Japanese Larch Larix kaempferi, the abundant self-seeded saplings and seedlings along the verges being my 1500th species of vascular plant in Britain. I took a sprig back with me and took pics of that, not very photogenic but hey, it's number 1500! If ever you find yourself on the B862 a little south of Stratherrick, pull over and check any larch plantations you see because it'll probably be this.


On 7th May I stayed local and wandered the woods south of Portree. There's a mysterious cotoneaster that has been determined by the BSBI's Cotoneaster referee as Cotoneaster serotinus, which would be the second British record and new for Scotland. In the absence of flowers, which would help confirm that determination, Stephen Bungard and myself remain slightly dubious of that ID. I've been popping in every few weeks to see if it's produced flowers yet, no luck so far. However, I did find Heath Pearlwort Sagina subulata on the track which pleased me no end. It's not a rare plant on Skye, though it's only the second record in that 10km square, but I've only ever knowingly seen it twice before. It's the sort of suitably tiny thing that makes me happy.  


Heath Pearlwort Sagina subulata - with my GPS for scale
Lodgepole Pine Pinus contorta stands out like a sore thumb at this time of year with these impressive flowering structures

Sitka Spruce Picea sitchensis is also putting out a lot of fresh growth as the days lengthen, many of the trees are liberally daubed in pale green tips which make them look very distinctive from a distance


This is about the only part of  Sitka greenery that doesn't hurt when you grab it!
Bugle Ajuga reptans - one of my favourite springtime flowers
The grass that is really catching my eye at the moment is Sweet Vernal-grass Anthoxanthum odoratum which seems to be absolutely everywhere. The features that help confirm its identity are the white threadlike stigmas, Nazi salute of the upper stem leaf and the long hairs (hairy nostrils) on the auricles. Also, if you smell the root it has a weirdly antiseptic kind of smell. If scratch and sniff PC screens are ever invented I shall be sure to take a pic of the roots for you.   


Sweet Vernal-grass Anthoxanthum odoratum and some of its identifying features

Developing Wood Horsetail Equisetum sylvaticum looking particularly lovely
That evening it all kicked off at work and I rather carelessly managed to fracture my hand. Apparently this happens when folk punch foot-thick solid stone walls, who knew... Two hospitals, one splint, one sling and four hours later I was back at the hotel a little after 1am. I dare anyone to night drive forty miles on Skye's winding, mountainous roads whilst wearing a sling, it's certainly interesting! The next day a doctor signed off me off work for a week for being a nutjob. In need of a bit of headspace, and to get away from Uig for a while, I went on a roadtrip. Wow, I should have thought of this years ago, haha! With Scotland as my oyster I headed off that afternoon; just me, some plant books, a map, my tarp and a box of happy pills from the doc. Adios Skye, I'll see you in a week!

Starting at the furthest point possible whilst still being in Scotland, I headed into Berwickshire. St Abbs Head was calling me, luring me onwards with the promise of a very smart little flower that I was particularly keen to meet up with. I made it to about Dunbar before needing to sleep and awoke the next morning feeling vaguely refreshed and ready for botanical action. 

I spent about an hour quartering the steep, herb-rich grassland at the top of some pretty spectacular cliffs, searching for Spring Sandwort without any luck. I had gen that told me it was abundant in this area, I decided that I wasn't leaving until I'd found it. More criss-crossing cliffop slopes ensued. 




Purple Milk-vetch, Lady's Bedstraw and Early Purple Orchid
Purple Milk-vetch was an unexpected find in the short sward on steeper sections of slope. I don't know why, but this wasn't even on my radar. St Abbs Head is absolutely perfect for it, and it was lovely to finally encounter this charming little plant for the first time. Doubly lovely to see it flowering in profusion too. The Lady's Bedstraw had me puzzled for a while and I almost always struggle with the 'purple-coloured orchids' but I'm happy this one is Early Purple Orchid.

Quitting the slopes in exasperation, I spied some nearby rocky outcroppings and figured I'd check them over for some light entertainment and a change of scene before getting back to the grassy slopes. 
I should have started here.....
I was still approaching the rocky ledges when I caught sight of clumps of small white flowers...ah! I quickly closed the distance and was soon squatting amongst dozens of Spring Sandwort cushions. Checking the book (something I ought to have down earier) I discovered that Spring Sandwort grows in rocky areas, not in maritime grassland sward - doh! 



Spring Sandwort Sabulina (Minuartia) verna
It was actually somewhat larger than I was anticipating, putting me in mind of Knotted Pearlwort rather than the tiny thing I was expecting. Again, it's always a good idea to read the books beforehand! I scanned the rockface and guestimated a couple of hundred cushions of Spring Sandwort, and there was plenty of rockface that I didn't check. Lots and lots of plants. 

Also on the rockfaces were abundant cushions of Common Rock-rose (suddenly the name makes sense!) and quite a few Sticky Groundsel, though none of the latter in flower yet. It was pretty windy, hence the 'action' shot of the rock-rose!

Common Rock-rose Helianthemum nummularium and Sticky Groundsel Senecio viscosus
On the loop back towards the car park I wandered the top of Kirk Hill in search of the Knotted Clover that occurs up there. No luck, presumably it's just too difficult (for me) to pick out when not in flower. There was lots of Red Clover up there though, also not in flower, and a few other bits and bobs but it wasn't easy in the wind. Further around, there's a nice Guillemot colony on a tall stack, pic below and then cropped. There are more higher up too, the white rock is their guano.

The next site on my agenda was an area of undercliff right down by the English border. In fact, at one point I was within 500 metres of England. Was I tempted to head south? Was I heck, lol. 
View from the A1 bridge at Lamberton - just 450 yds north of the English border!


The much better view looking northwards from about a mile north of the English border
There's a particular plant that has a colony about a mile or so along the clifftop path, Silky Lady's-mantle Alchemilla glaucescens. Its British stronghold is the Yorkshire Dales, but there are a few outlier colonies in Scotland and this one is the best with over 500 plants present. Over 500, and yet in the three hours I was on site I found none at all. Nada. I'd like to say it's too early in the season for it, but it's not. I'd like to say I was in the wrong place, but my GPS told me otherwise. I'd like to think I'm a good enough botanist to spot the pretty damn distinctive leaves of an Alchemilla, but clearly I'm not. Meh, I honestly don't know where I went wrong with this plant. I did see an awful lot of Cowslips, which were lovely, and I found a couple of hundred Meadow Saxifrages growing alongside the railway track, which were the first I've seen for many years and the only ones I've ever seen in Scotland.

Cowslip Primula veris and Meadow Saxifrage Saxifraga granulata
The weather turned decidedly nasty, thankfully I made it back to the car as the first fat raindrops began to fall. The rain didn't stop for the rest of the afternoon, I wasn't sure where to head next, but I figured I may as well stay in the deep south whilst here. I checked the map, Edinburgh wasn't a million miles away, which meant I could be looking at Forked Spleenwort by the end of the day. Heading northwards I eventually crawled through the worst traffic I've encountered for some while to find the upper road around King Arthur's Seat has been cordoned off! I forgot to mention, when I punched the wall I also hurt my foot quite badly. After walking around St Abbs Head in the morning and then the cliffs at Lamberton in the afternoon, the thought of walking up to where the Forked Spleenwort lives was just too much to seriously consider. Arse. Instead, I headed into Alva to yeartick the Fern-leaved Corydalis that grows on a wall, only to find the wall has been cleaned up and the plant is no longer present. Bugger. At least I'd had a great first half to the day. I kipped somewhere near Stirling that night, deciding that in the morning I would undertake a spot of slum botany around a sprawling industrial estate and then head into Ayrshire for Scotland's only Green-winged Orchids, which ought to be looking at their finest about now. Doubtless I'd bump into a few other bits and pieces whilst in the south. I slept better that night, my head was unwinding and my hand wasn't quite as painful as it had been. Good stuff, tomorrow would be fun. 

I ended the day on 608 species for my plant yearlist, Spring Sandwort and Japanese Larch being the two lifers I'd gained so far into May. 
 



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